Rose gold is gold alloyed with a higher share of copper than yellow gold, which gives it a pink to reddish color. The more copper in the mix, the redder the metal. It comes in the same karats as yellow gold, so 14K rose gold has the same gold content as 14K yellow gold.
How the color works
Gold on its own is yellow. In yellow gold, the alloy is a balance of silver and copper. Shift that balance toward copper and the alloy warms toward pink. Remove the silver almost entirely and the color turns deep red. Silver pulls the color back toward pale pink and softens it.
The trade uses three loose names along this range:
- Red gold has the most copper and the deepest color. An 18K red gold may be close to 75 percent gold and 25 percent copper.
- Rose gold sits in the middle, with mostly copper and a little silver in the alloy.
- Pink gold has more silver and less copper, giving a lighter, softer pink.
These names do not have legal definitions. Two makers can sell slightly different alloys under the same label, so if you are matching pieces, ask for the same maker's alloy or compare them side by side.
Karat also affects the color. A 14K rose gold contains a larger share of alloy than 18K, so it can show more pink, while 18K rose gold mixes more yellow from the gold itself. Higher-karat rose golds tend to look warmer and more apricot than lower-karat versions.
Russian gold and Faberge
Rose gold is sometimes called Russian gold, because it was fashionable in Russia in the nineteenth century. Copper-rich gold appears in Russian jewelry and objects of that period, and the term stuck.
The firm of Peter Carl Faberge, jeweler to the Russian imperial court, used gold in several colors on the same object. Its makers combined red, yellow, green and white golds on cigarette cases, clocks and the famous imperial Easter eggs, often in carved garlands and borders. The technique of setting different colored golds side by side was older, and French goldsmiths of the eighteenth century used it on snuff boxes and watch cases, but Faberge's workshops made it familiar to later collectors.
Rose gold also appears in British and American jewelry of the Victorian era, often in 9K and 15K pieces. Gold coins struck in 22K "crown gold," an alloy of gold and copper used for British sovereigns, have a warmer tone than pure gold for the same reason.
Fashion for rose gold has risen and fallen. It was popular in the 1920s, again in the 1940s, and again in watches and jewelry in the 2010s.
Durability
Copper is harder than gold and silver, so rose gold is usually a little harder than yellow gold of the same karat. That makes it a good choice for rings and bracelets that see daily wear. It resists scratches and dents at least as well as yellow gold.
There are two caveats. First, alloys very high in copper can be less malleable and more prone to cracking while being worked or cast, which can make resizing and repair more delicate. Second, lower karat rose golds contain a lot of copper, which can darken slightly with time when exposed to sulfur compounds, chlorine or sweat. This shows as a deeper, warmer tone. Some owners like it. A jeweler can polish it back.
Rose gold is not plated with rhodium the way white gold is, because its color comes from the alloy itself and goes all the way through the metal. Scratches and wear reveal the same color beneath.
Skin and allergy notes
Copper allergy is uncommon. Rose gold alloys usually contain no nickel, so many people with nickel allergies can wear them. Very sensitive wearers should ask the maker for the alloy composition. As with low-karat yellow gold, some people find copper-rich alloys leave a faint mark on the skin in hot, humid conditions, which washes off and is harmless.
Rose gold with gemstones
Rose gold pairs well with pink and warm stones: morganite, pink sapphire, rose quartz, champagne diamonds and pearls with pink overtones. It also flatters colorless diamonds and white stones by giving a soft, warm frame. Antique-style rings often combine a rose gold band with white metal settings around the stones.
| Gemstone | Why it suits rose gold |
|---|---|
| Morganite | Pink beryl, echoes the metal's color |
| Pink sapphire | Hard and durable for daily rings |
| Diamond | Colorless stones contrast with the warm metal |
| Pearl | Pink overtones match the alloy |
| Smoky quartz | Brown tones blend with copper warmth |
Care
Clean rose gold with warm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Avoid chlorine pools and harsh cleaners, which can attack the copper. A jeweler's polishing cloth can bring back the original color if it has darkened. The jewelry cleaning guide covers which gemstones tolerate ultrasonic and steam cleaning, and the hallmarks page explains the karat stamps found on rose gold jewelry.
Frequently asked questions
Is rose gold real gold?
Yes. Rose gold contains the same gold content as yellow gold of the same karat. Only the alloy differs, with more copper and less silver.
Does rose gold fade or tarnish?
The color goes through the metal, so it does not wear off. Lower karat rose gold can darken slightly with exposure to sulfur or chlorine, and polishing restores it.
Is rose gold more durable than yellow gold?
It is usually slightly harder because of the extra copper, which helps it resist scratches. Very high-copper alloys can be harder to resize without cracking.
What is the difference between rose, red and pink gold?
They differ in how much copper the alloy contains. Red gold has the most copper, rose gold sits in the middle and pink gold has more silver and less copper.