All About GemstonesThe Gemstone Library
Diamond guide

Diamonds

An introduction to diamonds: what diamond is, the 4Cs, natural versus lab-grown stones, how diamonds are cut, and where they are mined and traded.

Diamond is crystallized carbon, the hardest natural material known and one of the most studied gems in the world. This section covers how diamonds form, how they are graded and cut, how lab-grown stones compare with mined ones, and how rough moves from mine to jewelry counter.

What a diamond is

A diamond is pure carbon arranged in a tight cubic lattice in which every atom bonds strongly to four neighbors. That structure gives diamond a 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, high thermal conductivity, and a refractive index of about 2.42, which bends light sharply and gives a well cut stone its brilliance. Graphite is also pure carbon, but its atoms sit in weakly linked sheets, so it is soft. The diamond chemistry and formation page explains the difference, including the Type Ia, Ib, IIa and IIb classes based on nitrogen and boron.

Most natural diamonds formed roughly 150 to 200 kilometers below the surface, beneath old, stable parts of the continents called cratons, and many are one to over three billion years old. Volcanic eruptions carried them up in kimberlite and lamproite pipes. See diamond geology for the full story.

The 4Cs

Diamonds are graded on color, clarity, cut and carat weight, a system GIA developed and popularized in the mid-20th century. Color for white diamonds runs on a letter scale from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Clarity runs from Flawless to Included and describes the size, number and visibility of inclusions and blemishes. Cut grades describe how well the proportions and finish return light. Carat is weight, with one carat equal to 0.2 grams.

The diamond 4Cs guide explains how the four factors interact, with separate pages on each one. Diamonds beyond the normal color range, such as strong yellow, pink or blue, are graded on a different scale described in fancy colored diamonds.

Natural and lab-grown diamonds

Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds with the same carbon crystal structure and properties as mined ones. General Electric produced the first reproducible synthetic diamonds in the 1950s using high pressure and high temperature (HPHT). Chemical vapor deposition (CVD), which builds diamond from carbon-rich gas, became a major gem method in the 2010s. Lab-grown stones are now common in jewelry and generally sell for much less than natural diamonds of similar grade. Trained gemologists and lab instruments can tell the two apart, and U.S. FTC guidance says lab-grown stones must be clearly disclosed. Read more in lab-grown diamonds.

Lab-grown diamond is different from a simulant, which only imitates diamond. Cubic zirconia and moissanite are the most common simulants, and the how to tell if a diamond is real guide covers how testers separate them.

Cutting

Rough diamond is planned, sawn or cleaved, shaped and polished, and the cut decides how much light and fire a stone shows. The modern round brilliant, with 57 or 58 facets, is the most popular shape. Its proportions owe a lot to Marcel Tolkowsky's 1919 analysis. Older styles such as the rose cut and old European cut were designed for candlelight. Start with how diamonds are cut and the history of diamond cutting.

Mining and trade

For most of history, diamonds came from riverbeds in India, especially the region around Golconda. Brazil took over as the main source in the 18th century, and South Africa followed after the discoveries of 1867. In the 20th century De Beers controlled much of the world's rough supply. Major production later came from Botswana, Russia, Canada, Australia and other countries, and Australia's Argyle mine, famous for pink diamonds, closed in 2020.

The diamond mines of the world page surveys producing countries. The diamond pipeline traces how rough stones are sold, cut in centers such as Surat and Antwerp, and set into jewelry. The conflict diamonds page covers the civil wars of the 1990s and the Kimberley Process certification scheme that followed in 2003.

Buying a diamond

If you are shopping, read the 4Cs pages first, then diamond certificates and grading reports, which explains how to read a lab report and verify it. Diamond treatments covers fracture filling, laser drilling and color treatment.

Frequently asked questions

Are lab-grown diamonds real diamonds?

Yes. They have the same chemistry, crystal structure and physical properties as natural diamonds. They must be disclosed as lab-grown when sold.

How old are natural diamonds?

Most natural diamonds are between about one billion and over three billion years old, usually much older than the volcanic rocks that carried them to the surface.

Every page in Diamonds

Diamond guideThe Diamond 4CsHow the diamond 4Cs work, where GIA's grading system came from, and how color, clarity, cut and carat weight trade off against each other.Diamond guideDiamond Carat WeightWhat a diamond carat weighs, how points work, why prices jump at round sizes, and how carat weight relates to the diameter you actually see.Diamond guideDiamond ClarityHow diamond clarity is graded from FL to I3, the difference between inclusions and blemishes, what eye-clean means, and how a clarity plot works.Diamond guideDiamond ColorHow the D to Z diamond color scale works, why nitrogen makes diamonds yellow, how fluorescence and settings change the look, and where fancy color begins.Diamond guideDiamond Grading LabsWho grades diamonds, from GIA and IGI to HRD and the former AGS lab, why grades can differ between labs, and what an independent grading report covers.Diamond guideDiamond Certificates and Grading ReportsA section-by-section guide to reading a diamond grading report, from the plot and proportions diagram to laser inscriptions and online report checks.Diamond guideThe AGS Diamond Grading ReportHow AGS Laboratories graded diamonds on a 0 to 10 scale, how its light performance cut grades and ASET images worked, and what changed in 2022.Diamond scienceDiamond GeologyHow diamonds form 150 to 200 km deep beneath ancient cratons, how kimberlite and lamproite carry them up, and how they end up in rivers and seabeds.Diamond scienceDiamond Chemistry and FormationWhy diamond is so hard, how its carbon bonds differ from graphite, what pressure it needs to form, and how nitrogen and boron define Type Ia, Ib, IIa and IIb.Diamond scienceDiamond Optical PropertiesHow diamond's refractive index of 2.42 and dispersion of 0.044 create brilliance, fire and scintillation, and how cut angles control light return.Diamond guideFancy Colored DiamondsWhat makes diamonds yellow, blue, pink or green, how GIA grades fancy color, famous stones like the Hope, and how labs detect treated color.Diamond guideLab-Grown DiamondsHow lab-grown diamonds are made by HPHT and CVD, their history since the 1950s, how labs detect them, and what the 2018 FTC Guides say about disclosure.Diamond simulantCubic ZirconiaWhat cubic zirconia is, how it has been made since the 1970s, how its fire, weight and hardness compare with diamond, and the simple ways to tell the two apart.Diamond simulantMoissaniteWhat moissanite is, Henri Moissan's discovery in a meteorite crater, how synthetic moissanite reached jewelry in the 1990s, and how to tell it from diamond.Diamond guideHow to Tell if a Diamond Is RealWhich home diamond tests tell you something and which mislead, how thermal and electrical testers work, and why only a lab can spot lab-grown diamonds.Diamond guideDiamond TreatmentsHow laser drilling, fracture filling, HPHT processing, irradiation and coatings change diamonds, how labs detect each one, and why disclosure matters.Diamond guideHow Diamonds Are CutHow a rough diamond becomes a polished gem: planning and scanning, cleaving and laser sawing, bruting, blocking, brillianteering and polishing on a scaife.Diamond historyHistory of Diamond CuttingHow diamond cutting developed from polished point cuts in India and Venice to table, rose, old mine and old European cuts and the modern round brilliant.Diamond cut guideThe Round Brilliant CutAnatomy of the round brilliant diamond: its 57 or 58 facets, crown and pavilion angles, girdle and culet, Tolkowsky ideal, cut grades and hearts and arrows.Antique diamond guideOld European and Old Mine CutsHow to identify old mine and old European cut diamonds: open culets, high crowns and small tables, why they glow by candlelight, and the recutting debate.Diamond cut guidePatented and Branded Diamond CutsHow fancy and branded diamond cuts work: the princess, radiant, Asscher revival and trilliant, what a cut patent covers, and how to judge any fancy cut.Diamond clarity guideDiamond Inclusion LibraryA plain-English catalog of diamond inclusions and blemishes, from pinpoints, clouds and feathers to knots and laser drill holes, with durability notes.Diamond buying guideHow Diamonds Are PricedHow diamond prices are set: price per carat, how the 4Cs interact, wholesale price lists, retail markup, magic sizes and the lab-grown price gap.Diamond trade guideThe Diamond PipelineHow a diamond moves from mine to retail: rough sorting, sights and tenders, cutting centers like Surat and Antwerp, polished trading, jewelry making and stores.Diamond historyHistory of the Diamond TradeHow the diamond trade grew from Golconda and India through Venice, Bruges and Antwerp, Brazil, the South African rush, De Beers and the single-channel era.Diamond tradeAntwerp's Diamond BoursesAntwerp's diamond district and its four bourses: how the trading clubs work, the handshake and mazal custom, and five centuries of diamond history.Diamond miningHow Diamonds Are MinedHow diamonds are mined: open pits, underground block caving, alluvial digging, marine mining off Namibia, ore processing with DMS and X-rays, and impacts.Diamond ethicsConflict DiamondsWhat conflict diamonds are, how they funded wars in Sierra Leone, Angola, Liberia and the DRC, how the Kimberley Process works and where it falls short.Diamond jewelryRough Diamond JewelryA guide to rough and uncut diamond jewelry and salt-and-pepper diamonds: crystal shapes like octahedra and macles, setting challenges, grading and care.