White gold is gold alloyed with whitening metals, usually nickel or palladium, to produce a pale gray-white metal. Most white gold jewelry is then plated with rhodium for a bright, mirror-white surface. The plating wears with time, so white gold rings need replating every year or two to keep that look.
How gold becomes white
Pure gold is strongly yellow, and there is no metal that cancels the color completely. Jewelers bleach it by adding metals that dilute and mute the yellow. Nickel and palladium are the two that work best. Silver, zinc and copper play supporting roles.
Even the whitest alloys keep a faint warm or gray tint. That is why a piece of unplated white gold often looks slightly yellowish or champagne-toned beside platinum. The lower the karat, the less gold there is to tint the metal, so 14K white gold usually looks whiter than 18K white gold before plating.
White gold came into wide use in the early twentieth century as a cheaper alternative to platinum, which was in fashion for diamond jewelry. Its use grew when the United States restricted platinum for military needs during World War II, and it has stayed common in engagement rings since.
Nickel white gold
Nickel white gold is gold mixed with nickel, copper and zinc. It was the first white gold widely used and is still common, especially in the United States.
- It is hard and springy, which suits prongs, clasps and spring-loaded parts.
- It whitens gold effectively and costs less than palladium white gold.
- It is harder to work, and harder to cast without cracks, than palladium alloys.
- It can cause skin reactions in people allergic to nickel.
Nickel is one of the most common causes of allergic contact dermatitis. The European Union restricts how much nickel an item in prolonged contact with skin may release, and many European makers avoid nickel white gold entirely for that reason. Rhodium plating covers the alloy, but once it wears through, a sensitive wearer may react.
Palladium white gold
Palladium white gold mixes gold with palladium, often with silver and small amounts of other metals. Palladium is a platinum-group metal and whitens gold well without the allergy concern.
- It is softer and more malleable than nickel white gold, which makes it easier to set stones and resize.
- It is denser, so a ring weighs more.
- It tends to have a grayer tone than nickel white gold.
- It usually costs more, because palladium is a precious metal and the alloy needs more of it.
Many jewelers choose palladium white gold for customers with sensitive skin. Hallmarks do not usually tell you which whitening metal a piece contains, so ask the seller if allergy is a concern.
Rhodium plating
Almost all new white gold jewelry is electroplated with rhodium, another platinum-group metal. Rhodium is very white, very hard and resists tarnish. The plating layer is extremely thin, usually well under a micron, but it gives white gold its bright, cool appearance and hides the faint yellow tint of the alloy beneath.
Rhodium wears away with friction. On a ring, the palm side and the edges usually show wear first, revealing a slightly warmer metal underneath. Earrings and pendants keep their plating much longer because they rub against less. How fast plating wears depends on the wearer's habits, the alloy and the plating thickness, but many jewelers suggest a ring may need replating every 12 to 24 months.
Replating is routine work at a jewelry shop. The jeweler cleans and polishes the piece, removes oils, then dips it in a rhodium plating bath with an electric current. Some gemstones and treated stones cannot go through the cleaning and plating steps, so the jeweler may need to mask or remove them first. The process is covered more fully on the rhodium plating page.
White gold versus platinum
White gold and platinum look similar when new, and both are popular for diamond rings. They differ in several practical ways.
| Feature | White gold (14K or 18K) | Platinum (950) |
|---|---|---|
| Natural color | Pale gray to slightly warm | Gray-white |
| Plating | Usually rhodium plated | Not required |
| Density | About 12.5 to 16 g/cm³ | About 21 g/cm³ |
| Wear behavior | Metal is lost to abrasion over time | Metal shifts when scratched and develops patina |
| Allergy risk | Possible with nickel alloys | Low |
| Typical cost | Lower | Higher |
Platinum weighs noticeably more and is usually 95 percent pure, so it costs more. It keeps its white color without plating, though it dulls to a soft gray patina that some owners like and others have polished away. White gold offers a whiter, brighter look when freshly plated, at a lower price, with the upkeep of replating.
Choosing and caring for white gold
If you have a known nickel allergy, ask for palladium white gold or consider platinum. If you want the brightest white look with the least maintenance, platinum or regular rhodium replating are both options. If you prefer the natural tone of the metal, some jewelers sell unplated white gold, which has a soft, slightly warm gray color.
Clean white gold with warm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Avoid chlorine, which can attack gold alloys, and harsh abrasive polishes, which strip plating faster. Many shops will check prongs and replate in the same visit. The jewelry cleaning guide lists which gems tolerate ultrasonic cleaning, and the gemstone settings page explains which setting styles hold up best in white metals.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my white gold ring turning yellow?
The rhodium plating has worn through, showing the white gold alloy underneath, which has a faint warm tint. A jeweler can replate it.
Is white gold real gold?
Yes. 14K white gold contains the same 58.5 percent gold as 14K yellow gold. Only the alloy metals, and usually a rhodium plating, differ.
Can I wear white gold with a nickel allergy?
Palladium white gold is usually safe. Nickel white gold can cause a reaction, especially once the rhodium plating wears thin, so ask the jeweler which alloy is used.
How often does white gold need replating?
Rings often need it every one to two years, depending on wear. Pendants and earrings can go much longer.